this thread is meant to be ongoing and growing.. these are the first two that i could think of that are frequently asked all add more as time goes on. if you can think of one to add, please post up and ill add it.
icon smile if you have any questions pretaining to the turbo faq, please start a new topic
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Not up for "rolling your own" ?
TCD makes a "kit"
http://www.turbochargingdynamics.com/- iXer
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Having trouble getting started?
We suggest you start here:
-> Maximum boost by Corky Bell (Link to Amazon)
It's the Turbochargers bible. Read it, love it. Cherrish it. icon smile
A few quotes from the book:
How much power can I expect from a turbocharged engine?
With currently available fuels, 7 to 12 psi boost is a practical upper limit for stock engines (at sea-level elevation). Intercooling permits this when elaborately and properly done. Certainly not all turbo kits or systems will perform the same, due to widely varying engineering efforts on the above items. Special preparation of engines specifically for turbo applications can frequently permit boost pressures of 15 to 20 psi. To claim, calculate, or estimate a specific figure for power from a turbo engine can be precarious indeed.
Of known dyno runs on piston engines with a variety of turbo systems, the lowest output we have achieved is .052 bhp/cid psi and the highest is .077 bhp/cid psi. The variance is due to the engines' basic designs. To guess at the output of your own engine, choose a logical boost level and multiply each of the two values by both displacement in cubic inches and boost pressure plus 14.7.
Example: A 350 cid engine with 10 psi boost
Lower value = 0.052 x 350 x (10 + 14.7) = 449 bhp
Higher value = 0.077 x 350 x (10 + 14.7) = 666 bhp
Does the rated boost of a kit have any merit?
It does if, and only if, the conditions required to achieve that boost are defined and accurate. For example:
. Was the gasoline used commercially available pump gas?
. Were octane boosters used?
. Was detonation present?
. What was intake air temperature?
. Is this the same boost-pressure setting the buyer will receive?
Considering the large power increases offered by the turbocharger, what keeps the entire structure of the engine from going south?
A proper answer to this question is a complete analysis of the inertial, power, and thermal loads before and after turbo installation. If this is performed, ' the conclusion will be two interesting bits of information:
. The inertial loads in a modern internal combustion street engine are so large at maximum power that the power component of the total load is of little significance. For example, to induce as much power load into a conrod bearing as the bearing already sees from inertial loads, the actual power of the engine would need to increase approximately 50%.
. The thermal load in an engine not originally designed for a turbocharger will cause an increase in component and cooling-system temperatures when operating under boost. The components and cooling system can handle the temperature increase for a limited period. This is true for Buicks, Porsches, Saabs, Volvos, Nissans, etc. It is also true for all aftermarket turbo kits. The time limit is subject to many conditions. Experience has led me to believe that the time limit at full boost is on the order of 20 to 25 seconds. This is an operational restriction but not one of any consequence. Consider, for example: How fast will you be traveling if you hold full throttle in a 325 bhp Toyota Supra for twenty seconds? The answer is obviously an impractically high rate of speed.
When should the turbo start producing boost?
In most cases, there are trade-offs between a low boost threshold and maximum power. To bias the turbo size toward low-speed boost capability generally means operating the turbo in a very inefficient flow range at the engine's top end. Conversely, if maximum power is to be achieved, the turbo will usually be so large that no boost will be available until the last half of the rev range. Compromise is obviously necessary. A reasonable balance between low speed response and top-end power is to size the turbo such that it begins producing boost at about 30% of the redline rpm, this varies with the cam profile.
How will the turbocharger affect driveability?
Driveability of fuel-injected engines will remain the same. Driveability of blow-through carbureted engines will remain virtually the same. The starting of carbureted engines will be degraded slightly. Please note that draw-through units will virtually always degrade drive ability and starting somewhat, with cold weather proving the Achilles' heel of a draw-through system.
Will the turbocharger hurt my mileage?
Yes. The turbo, when installed as an aftermarket item on a spark-ignition engine, is not an economizer and cannot be construed as such. There is no engineering basis for making such claims. If you are led into purchasing a turbo under the premise of improving your fuel mileage, be sure to get a written guarantee. When not operating under boost, a turbocharger is a small system restriction. This restriction causes a small loss in volumetric efficiency. Volumetric efficiency and fuel economy are definitely tied together. If your driving habits are about the same as most, your mileage will drop about 10% city and 5% highway. No miracles here.
Will the turbocharger affect engine wear and maintenance?
Certainly the turbo will affect engine wear. Do you really expect to add power and not increase wear? No miracles here either. If you drive vigorously but with some respect for the equipment, you can expect about 90% of normal engine life.
Will the transmission and drivetrain be adversely affected?
Very unlikely. Consider that the drivetrain endures more torque in first gear from the stock engine than almost any turbo can produce in second gear. Occasionally a clutch comes along that won't do the extra duty. Most clutch problems are going to crop up when shifting habits are less than acceptable. Not to worry.
What does it feel like to drive a properly set up turbo car?
A turbo can justifiably be called a torque multiplier: the more boost, the more torque. This situation is analogous to gear ratios. For example, a third gear with a tranny ratio of 1.4 will develop 40% more torque at the rear wheels than a fourth-gear ratio of 1.0. A boost pressure of6 psi will increase torque by about 40% (using an intercooler). Thus you can see that 6 psi boost will produce fourth-gear acceleration virtually equal to a stock automobile's thirdgear capability. Imagine what the proper turbo car will do in second gear! Another reasonable comparison is that a proper turbo car operating at 10 psi boost will do 0-60 in two-thirds the original time; i.e., 6 seconds versus 9 seconds.
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Here's a really nice write-up on creating your own turbo kit (for a honda/acura but still interesting, and universal)
http://www.cse.uconn.edu/~yelevich/turbo/turbo.htmlall parts of a turbo setup explained.
- Morpheus
Q: What plugs should i use? what should i gap them to?
A: NGK 3923 BPR8ES plugs. Their 3 degrees colder than stock. i gap them to .025"
Q: What head bolts or head studs should i use?
A: Metric Blue - grade 12.9 head bolts
http://www.mcmaster.com/Part Number 91303A306 $10.56 per Pack of 5. you will need 3 packs of 5.
also, use the washers from your old head bolts.
Material
Class 12.9 Blue-Coated Alloy Steel
Head Style
Standard
Drive Style
Hex Socket
System of Measurement
Metric
Thread Size
M10
Length
150 mm
Hex Key Size
8 mm
Thread Style
Standard Right Handed
Thread Length
Partially Threaded
Q: When cylinder heads crack, where do they crack?
A: This is the number 4 cam journal closeup:
http://www.bimmerjim.com/images/MyBMW/E ... ay_033.jpghttp://www.bimmerjim.com/images/MyBMW/E ... ay_031.jpgheres the crack that keads to the number 5 cam journal
http://www.bimmerjim.com/images/MyBMW/E ... ay_037.jpgNumber 5 cam journal closeup:
http://www.bimmerjim.com/images/MyBMW/E ... ay_032.jpgQ: What do i torque my "Metric Blues" to?
A: Dip the bolts in motor oil. Only dip them about half way up the threaded portion of the bolt. If the headbolts are not lubricated, that would mean you should start over and do it again according to corky bell. Torque all the head bolts (in the correct order) to 30 ft lbs, wait 5 min. Torque them all to 40, repeat that process untill all of the headbolts are torqued to 80 ft lbs.
Q: Where can i find a turbo manifold for my car?
A: there are multiple options for this, typically, people will either use an adapter, modify a 324td manifold to work, or make their own manifold or manifold adapter.
The 666 Fabrication manifold adapter:
http://www.666fabrication.com/Available with different flanges and wastegate options.
ITG Performance Tubular Equal Length Manifold
www.itgperformance.comThe Pro Turbo manifold adapter:
http://www.proturbo.fi/roughly 300-400 dollars depending on the exchange rate..
This is an adapter to the original manifold: (click for pic)
http://www.proturbo.fi/pakosarjat/sovite.GIFcontact Jason Bover (swartz) to order.
Example of DIY adapter: (click for pic) Compliments of Diego.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_im ... 1_full.jpghttp://memimage.cardomain.net/member_im ... 7_full.jpghttp://memimage.cardomain.com/member_im ... 8_full.jpgExamples of tubular DIY manifolds: (click for pic)
http://members.lycos.co.uk/skatanicnet/ ... 000222.JPG (complements of skatanic)
http://savarturbo.se/~mattias/motor/pic ... 107237.jpghttp://savarturbo.se/~mattias/motor/pic ... ds/marcus/ (three pictures)
Also see this thread for more info:
http://www.e30tech.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1913Q: Where can I get an exhaust system from the turbo to the back of the car?
A: No company makes a "turbo" exhaust for the e30, so it must be custom. There are some high flow catalyitic converters, resonators and mufflers though, made by companies like magnaflow. A common size seems to be 3" diameter, some people like to go all the way up to 4." A lot of people like Stainless Steel, but its debatable if it is worth the extra cost. Mandril bent pipes are essential for the best, smooth system with no bottlenecks, thats where it gets expensive. Luckly the e30 exhaust is fairly straight
- atmh
heres a link to another post regarding turbo exhaust:
http://www.e30tech.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4054- screaming_bmwe30
Q: what headgasket should i use?
A: Many of us use the factory gasket and have had relitively good luck with it as long as the head is bolted down snug with studs or good non stretching bolts. i used a Permatex copper spray a gasket -
http://ken-co.com/permatex-small/copper-spray.jpg that can be found at most any local atuo parts store. it makes the hasket surfce sticky, helping it adhere to the surface increacs surface tension and helps to prevent gasket "pushing"
often copper head gaskets require oringing of the head, or block or both to seal corectly, and sometimes they dont even seal then. not many turbo e30's have full copper head gaskets.
Heres a Nice article on O-ringing head/block here:
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/engine ... n_ringing/- iXer
Q: What parts do i use for the turbo oil lines and fittings?
A: you need a male 12mmx 1.5pitch thread and preferrably a 1/8" npt thread on the other side of the fitting for the feed, [it then can be easly adapted to AN or other NPT fittings] if you plan to use the oil pressure switch location. You can run a length of copper gauge tubing if you want to reduce the oil pressure, [1/8th coper pipe] and then run your line off of that restrictor, or you can just run a 1/4 line up to the turbo using barbed fittings and have 60psi at idle and 15psi at warm idle. Lots of drain options. get the biggest drain hose you can make fit properly, and drill and tap a fitting in the oil pan's front passenger side corner. [make shure the oil return is abolve the level of oil in your oil pan.] I used a bulhead fitting with a 90deg elbow pointing up.
- screaming_bmwe30
my fittings : engine block ; female. 12x1.5mm male to 1/8 female adapter, 1/8th npt male female female 3 way t fitting, one side goes to a 1/8th NPT male to 12 X 1.5 female adapter conected to the factory oil pressure sensor. the other side of the T fitting goes to a 1/8 NPT female to AN4 SS line to a an4 to 1/4 pipe adapter to a 1/4 npt 3 way t fitting to the elec. oil pressure sending unit. then 1/8 npt to an 4 to another an4 line to the turbo. an4 to adaper to 1/4 npt to the turbo. oil return is an an8 to a bulkhead an8 fitting drilled into the pan.
since my first go at the oil return, i have revised it. im certan that oil burning issues are related to imporper oil return. on my first setup the return line was sourced into the top front passenger side corner of the oil pan, it was a -8 return line and 90 degree fitting.
this is how my oil return was:
http://www.bimmerjim.com/images/MyBMW/O ... gs_008.jpg ....my thoughts... OEM turbo cars dont use oil restrictors to the turbo oil feed.... so this is why i revised my oil return.. moved the return higher on the oil pan. i made it a -10 return instead of an -8. click the links below for pictures. you can see by the slant of the engine that the old location of the oil return was actualy somewhat below the oil level. also, because of the slant of the engine, the oil was forced to go uphill to return to the pan. but because of room constraints, that was the only place i thought that it could go, but with more resources, i was able to put the return well above the oil level.
http://www.bimmerjim.com/images/MyBMW/E ... %20049.jpghttp://www.bimmerjim.com/images/MyBMW/E ... %20051.jpghttp://www.bimmerjim.com/images/phonepi ... 968837.jpghttp://www.bimmerjim.com/images/phonepi ... 531397.jpgheres the fittings i used after a fair amount of tial and error:
http://www.tunerschoice.com/xq/aspx/pag ... roduct.htm(1) 6176191 BULKHEAD ADAPTOR NUT, AN10 ea $3.95
http://www.tunerschoice.com/xq/aspx/pag ... roduct.htm(1) 6179064 AN10 Stat-O-Seals pr $4.95
http://www.tunerschoice.com/xq/aspx/pag ... roduct.htm(2) 617310-CUT #10, 9/16" ID, LOW PRESSURE HOSE, CUT-TO-LENGTH EACH FOOT $7.45
http://www.tunerschoice.com/xq/aspx/pag ... roduct.htm(1) 6171011 45° FULL FLOW HOSE END, #10 ea $20.25
http://www.tunerschoice.com/xq/aspx/pag ... roduct.htm(1) 6171004 STRAIGHT FULL FLOW HOSE END, #10 ea $8.95
http://www.tunerschoice.com/xq/aspx/pag ... roduct.htm(1) 6177026 90° AN10 O-RING FITTING ea $29.95
TOTAL = $75.50
with this oil return, i shouldnt need to restrict the oil pressure to the turbo.
- bimmerjim®
The oil feed line is taken from the stock oil press switch located in the right side of the block, near the oil filter, you can attach a "T" fitting in there so you can keep your oil switch and the line to feed the turbo with oil.
In my case is a custom made. Try to keep the oil at 5-9 PSI @ idle in WARM condition and max oil press in the turbo mouth at 25-30 PSI, also in warm. So you can save your seals of the turbo and won't kill it. I added an adjustable key to regulate the press and flow of the oil in the low section. (click for pic)
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_im ... 7_full.jpghttp://memimage.cardomain.net/member_im ... 5_full.jpg- diego
Ok there seems to be a lot of inquiry on the oil-line and oil-return setup and where to get the items. So I came up an extensive explanation...if it seems familiar to one particular person's PM reply...then well yeah I'm lazy Mr. Green
The original forum thread to follow along is
http://www.e30tech.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=22270The big thing was to get the adapter for socket where the OEM oil-pressure sensor would go. You need a M12x1.5 to 1/8 npt adapter, you can get that from here
http://store.yahoo.com/fittingsandadapt ... ofemp.htmlAs far as the brass fittings you can get those cheaper and easier from any hardware store.
The 4 AN to 1/8 npt adapter I got from
www.atpturbo.com but I'm sure there's plenty of places to get them from.
The steel-braided oil-inlet hoses and the oil-return hoses I got from
www.atpturbo.com . For the oil-inlet I got the 36 inch hose, for the oil-return I got it custom length of 22 inch.
Also just as a precaution you should get the oil line restrictor adapter, it's a 1/8 npt adapter with a .06 hole in it. I had to learn the hard way. But just in case you like to learn the same way as me, then you can get a T3 turbo oil-seal kit from
http://www.turbochargers.com/store/prod ... a89b3b526cOn the bottom of the turbo is the oil-return adapter which is just a 10 AN adapter for a T3 turbo. You can get those anywhere, I got mine on evilbay.
On the oil pan there's a 10 AN bulkhead adapter that I got from
http://www.amstreetrod.com/985008ASR.php4 and the corresponding bulkhead nuts for it
http://www.amstreetrod.com/992408ASR.php4Also don't forget to pick up some aluminum crush washers
http://www.amstreetrod.com/177003ASR.php4Now if you've a equal length manifold and your oil-filter is a little to close to your manifold you can relocate your filter with this
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=skuI also ended up running that through to an oil cooler, recommended if you're boosting
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=skuAnyways, as always...I'll help out any way I can
-Kham
Q: Does the oil return HAVE to be tapped into the oil pan?
A: technicaly... no, it dosent have to be taped back to the pan. the oil return could be sent to the valve cover, cylnder head, Block or pan. the rule is: the oil as to be returned to the engine in a location that is not subject to positive oil pressure. a return to a place that is under oil pressure wioll want to feed oil back up the returen line. tipicaly, its easyest to gravity feed the oil to the pan because it is usualy below the turbo. the valve cover, head, or engine block is usualy above the turbo. so if you wanted to return the oil to anywhere above the turbo you would need to have an independant oil sump for the turbo and a pump to pump that oil to any alternate return source. one drawback to warn of returning oil to the side of the block is the oil could run against the rods and crank and cause power loss from windage.
it is important that a gravity return oil line not be obstructed, bent so that oil has to go uphill, or below the level of oil in the pan.
- bimmerjim®
Q: My car is blowing blue smoke now after the turbo install, WHY?
A: its because of one of four reasons. Bad turbo, (used?) to much oil pressure, incorect oil return to engine from the turbo, or the crancase is not properly ventelated.
check for excess shaft play in your turbo, if its normal, make shure your oil return from the turbo is unbostructed and above the level of oil in your pan shile the car is resting. also make shure nothing from the charge pipes are still conected to your valve cover and your valve cover is properly ventelated with a good filter breather.
often, a proper oil return will alow anyone to run full oil pressure to the turbo unrestricted. most turbos are originaly desgined to be fed with full oil pressure. but it also says in the book "maximum boost" by corky bell (the turbo FAQ bible) that turbos only need to be bathed in oil. no actual oil pressure should be exerted on the barrings and bushings of the turbo. a simple gravity feed and gravity return is adiquite.
when a turbo cannot remove the oil it is fed, the oil follows the path of least resistance, witch usualy ou the compressor housing and into your intake or out your turbine housing and into your exhaust.
- bimmerjim�
Q: what IS excess shaft play?
A: Holset specifies 0.3-0.5 mm of radial movement as acceptable (measured at the tip of the exhaust/intake wheel). Axial movement should be even less. Any more than those numbers and you're in for a rebuild. If you put one finger on the tip of the intake wheel and move the exhaust tip side to side and back and forth, you should not feel much of that on the intake wheel. On ball bearing turbos I suspect that axial play must be even less to be acceptable.
Q: What kind of turbo is suitable for my car ?
A: Really depends on how you want your set-up, the most reliable setup seems to be a hybrid T3 / T4 turbo wich spools relitivly fast and delivers good power. the key is finding a turbo that will yeild the highest efficency for the boost you plan on running. generaly small turbos spool fast and early, but die up top and are only efficent in low boost range. large turbos spool slow and late but provide big power up top and are only efficent in the high boost range. each turbo manufacturer makes there own model of turbo. different turbo manufactures dont relate to other turbo manufactures. so every model number means something different with each turbo.
if you intend on making a mean street machine or auto crosser that makes about 215-220 wheel horse, you can use small turbo like a large t3 turbo. a t3 super 60 for example. it will spool early and can provice full boost to redline if your boosting a relitively low amount. (6-8 psi) if you would like more of a street strip car that makes about 300 hp, youll want a medium size tuebo like a t3/t4. run about 14 psi of boost. generaly drag only cars have very large turbos and run alot of boost (20-30psi) plus maybe some nitrous to encourage turbo spool because large turbos spool very late.
a small turbo is useless at high boost, and often is not capable of sustaining high boost. as well, a large turbo is useless at low boost.
Below is a chart to specific turbos (compressor size and exhaust size) In correlation with Engine displacement and Horsepower...bhp i assume. I know some of you may wonder what size will work for a specific hp range on your displacement motor..etc. etc...so here you go. The ones listed are the most efficient in that power range and on that size motor. Maybe this can be a sticky? I have the full chart...but it's even bigger...encompassing hp ratings and displacments that we would never see.
These are all Turbonetics turbos
http://www.e30tech.com/index.php?module ... 4&viewkey=(click for pic)
- screaming_bmwe30
Q:I was just looking at different Holsets and I noticed that most of them have split exhaust housings, why?
The diesel truck turbos are all about efficiency, a divided entry will use the pulse energy better than a turbo with a single entry. The theory behind this is that there is a steady train of pulses arriving at the turbine. There are specific cylinders which should be combined to enter in each inlet so that the time delay between any two consecutive pulses is the same. On a 6 cyl inline BMW engine you should route 1+2+3 to one inlet and 4+5+6 to the other. On 4 cyl engines it's 1+4 and 2+3. The same reasoning can be applied to explain why twin turbo setups spool fast, and not because of their lighter/smaller axles and wheels.
At full load the need for pulse energy is lower, it's more about flow and a lot of the exhaust gas is bypassed through the wastegate anyway. Many "race turbos" are only found with a single entry as they are constantly under load in typical use. Personally I'd really like to see a scientific comparison as to how much that can gain in top performance.
An engine with less cylinders will benefit more from the pulse separation! So it's more important on a 4 cyl than a 6 cyl.
- iXer
Basically both entries are on a different angle with respect to the turbine. They way I understand it is that one entry is directed more towards of the outside turbine blades (for quick spool) and the other is directed more towards the inside of the turbine wheel (this works better once turbine is spinning at some rpm).
Basically one entry provides more leverage on the turbine blade that other and each is better in some cases, so you essentially get 'best of both worlds'.
Ideally you would want adjustable turbine blades (just like a propeller in an aircraft), because, large angle of attack is better for generating trust when gas speeds are high, while when the gas speeds are low, you want rather shallow angle of attack (lol, thats analysis compared to aircraft prop, but hey.. it's the same principle after all)....
- mops
Q: What type of engine management will suit my application?
A: Theres a bunch of engine management units out there like:
Piggybacks
Perfect Power's SMT-6 along with other products.
APEXi S-AFC
Standalone fuel management
MegaSquirt (can control spark with mods)
Full standalone engine management
VEMS Genboard
MicroTech
Haltech
Electromotive
Autronic
Just to name a few and the most popular ones. to suit you the best its recomended you research all the available options and choose for yourself which one will work best for you.
Q: What size of injectors i need, and should i upgrade my fuel pump?
A: This also depends on how much boost your planning to use and what fuel managament you choose. for 9 - 12psi with a stand alone fuel management unit i would say injector sizing of around 34lbs or more to be safe. 24lb/hr injectors in conjunction with an FMU are tipicaly the maximum size the factory ECU can deal with. some people have had sucess using 30 lb/hr injectors with some modification to the AFM when using the factory ECU and an FMU.
Some formulas:
500cc per minute is approximately equal to 49lbs per hour which is equal to approximately 100hp.
lbs/hour = cc per minute / 10.2
lbs per hour = HP / 2.04
cc per minute = lbs per hour x 10.2
cc per minute = HP x 5
HP = cc per minute / 5
HP = lbs per hour x 2.04
heres a realy great link to a very large database of avalable fuel injectors.
http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tableifc.htmMost of the guys upgrade their fuel pumps with Walbro 255 (high pressure - 140 psi max. works good for cars with an FMU) or wlaboro 307 (low pressure (50-60 psi, good for standalone managements with large injectors) these fuel pumps can be found pretty easly on ebay or other online retailers.
see this thread for more info:
http://www.e30tech.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3215Q: Will my stock clutch hold boost ?
A: Stock clutch should handle quite a beating but it wont last much and it'll start slipping in higher rpms. members have used a Spec III clutch, Centerforce dual friction, or the Clutchnet 6 Puck metalic with good results. a warning: Pucked clutches can be unforgiving. often pucked clutches have a brutal ON or OFF personality. they also chatter while geing engauged slowly, but bite VERY hard and hold alot of power. The stock clutch is good up to 220 whp.
- bimmerjim
This is a dyno graph of what happens when the stock clutch slips.
http://matt325i.home.comcast.net/turbodyno.jpg- matt
I'm using an unsprung 4-puck...and i wanted to make a note at how good the drivability is. It chatters just a bit pulling out of first gear, sometimes....but i drive in traffic everyday...and i've had no problems with it. It's a 110$ (shipped) way to hold a lot more power than stock. So far..under some overboost situations...I'm guessing the disk has held up to about 280whp in short bursts. I think it should hold 300whp pretty easily. Pedal pressure is identical to stock.
- screaming_bmwe30
Q: What camshaft will work best for my turbocharged E30?
A: There is no universal M20 turbo cam shaft. What cam shafts that work in the engine is determined basically by three things:
- Manifold design
- Turbo charger size
- Pressure (boost and back pressure from the turbo+manifold)
This affects the duration of intake/exhaust valve opening and how much overlap is possible without affecting cylinder scavenging and filling.
Ultimately, the factory cam shaft works very well on a turbocharged car as long as all parameters seem normal, like increasing boost results in the expected power increase. If that is not the case, many things could be wrong, example: the turbo is too small or cam overlap is too long for the manifold/turbo combination.
If you're looking for insane power increases, up to 500 crank hp out of what was originally a 170 hp N/A engine, then you better do some research and talk to a cam grinder. You should not expect low-end grunt with a turbo that flows enough for 500 crank hp on a 170 hp N/A engine.
Q:How much should I expect to spend on my turbo setup?
A: that is completely relevant to how much you WANT to spend. a typical MINIMUM cost install can range between 800 to 1400 dollars depending on the builders resources, and mostly all used parts. You can save a ton of money by doing it yourself and fabricating your own parts. On average people spend about 3000 on a turbo setup. At a maximum, the sky is the limit. You could build the motor, the head, gat a big scary ball bearing turbo, a 4000 dollar Motec engine management, etc.... etc.... It's easy to spend alot, and you get what you pay for. If you buy quality new parts, they will last, and you may even save money in the long run.
Q: What parts do i need to make my own turbo kit?
A: these are the bare minimum parts needed to make a turbo functional. with the bare minimums it would be safe to boost about 5-8 psi.
Turbo Manifold / manifold adapter
Turbo - with internal wastegate
Charge pipes
rubber conectors
clamps.
FMU,
oil inlet and oultet fittings
exhaust downpipe
This is the list of the adtional parts that are not needed, but.. highly recommended.
Intercooler (air to air or water to air)
Silicone couplers,
T bolt clamps
Standalone fuel management
Large injectors (36 lb/hr +)
Bigger better fuel pump
Gauges... the more you know the safer you are.
Q: What needs to be done to the "e" valve springs to handle boost?
A: How well the valves seal have little do to with the boost and more to do with the weight of the valves/retainer, the rpm, valve lift and the steepness of the cam lobes. If you use the stock cam and rev limiter you will be alright, but raise the rev limiter or change to a "performance" cam and you may experience valve float.
- iXer
Q: what gauges should i use and what are some possible placements for the gauges?
A: The more you know, the better you are. gauges i consider manditory for any vehicle that is boosted are an oil pressure gauge, a boost vac gauge and an EGT gauge. if your turbo car uses an FMU, i would highly recomend geting a fuel pressure gauge. if you have any sort of fuel controller or management a wideband o2 sensor is highly recomended. its also nice to have some extra gauges like narrowband o2 gauge and a water temp gauge.
-jim
Helpful links to gauge placement:
http://www.e30tech.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2817http://www.e30tech.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2094http://www.e30tech.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1348http://www.e30tech.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=953-chris
The boost/vac, oil pressure and fuel pressure are all pretty much self explanitory, except maybe an explination of where to place the sensors.
In summary, there should be a short write up (paragraph) on where/what to buy, and where to place them. I would do it, but I don't know enough, I will add what I can, feel free to correct any errors.
Boost/vac sensor should be placed as close to the compressor outlet as possible for precise boost control. Placing it at the inake manifold will allow for more accurate boost pressure readings going into the engine, but makes the boost control a bit more laggy and harder to control.
Oil pressure sensor should be placed immediately before the oil goes into the turbo, it is important to measure this so that the oil seals do not get blown from too much pressure.
EGT sensor should be placed as close the the exhaust port on the head as possible, placing multiple sensors on various locations on the manifold and exhaust system can allow for very accurate and precise tuning to get the most out of a turbo setup, but that goes beyond the scope of this write up.
- atmh
A complete stock 325i has 780° C@6000 rpm...measured directly in the header.
- RayBan
Here is a part list from Summit Racing for different oil pressure lines. These use adapters and fittings for -4AN lines and 1/4" NPT fitting for the turbo. This is almost identical to what I am using, though I have my T fitting closer to the turbo, instead of on the block. If you see any problems with this setup, let me know and I will change it. -> means that it converts. ^ means that it is a part of the T mentioned above. You may be able to find better prices elsewhere, but summitracing was easy to find parts from, and they were all in stock. The hose I chose for the prices is 3 feet long, which is plenty, you can order however much you need, just make sure its -4AN female/female.
M = Male F = Female
There are no restrictors in these lines, I have been running turbocharged for 2 years now with no problems.
Part | Part Number | Price
Stock Oil Pressure Sender and Oil Pressure Gauge
12x1.5mm M -> -4AN M | EAR-9919BFGERL | 9.69
-4AN F -> -4AN F Coupler | AER-FBM2914 | 10.25
-4AN M TEE | EAR-982604ERL | 7.50
Outlet 1. 1/8" NPT M ----- Oil Pressure Gauge ^
Outlet 2. -4AN M ^
-4AN F TEE | EAR-982604ERL | 7.50
Outlet 1. -4AN M ^
1a. 1/8" NPT F -> 1/8NPT F | EAR-991001ERL | 2.95
1b. 1/8" NPT F -> 12x1.5mm F | ATM-2277 | 8.95
Outlet 2. -4AN M ^
-4AN F Hose -> -4AN F Hose | NOS-15240NOS | 26.69
-4AN M -> -4AN F 90' Fitting | NOS-17535NOS | 8.99
-4AN M -> 1/4" NPT Fitting | AER-FBM2002 | 2.95
Total: 85.47
Stock Oil Pressure Sender
12x1.5mm M -> -4AN M | EAR-9919BFGERL | 9.69
-4AN F -> -4AN F Coupler | AER-FBM2914 | 10.25
-4AN M TEE | EAR-982604ERL | 7.50
Outlet 1. 1/8" ^
1a. 1/8" NPT F -> 1/8NPT F | EAR-991001ERL | 2.95
1b. 1/8" NPT F -> 12x1.5mm F | ATM-2277 | 8.95
Outlet 2. -4AN M ^
-4AN F Hose -> -4AN F Hose | NOS-15240NOS | 26.69
-4AN M -> -4AN F 90' Fitting | NOS-17535NOS | 8.99
-4AN M -> 1/4" NPT Fitting | AER-FBM2002 | 2.95
Total: 77.97
Oil Pressure Gauge
12x1.5mm M -> -4AN M | EAR-9919BFGERL | 9.69
-4AN F -> -4AN F Coupler | AER-FBM2914 | 10.25
-4AN M TEE | EAR-982604ERL | 7.50
Outlet 1. 1/8" NPT M ----- Oil Pressure Gauge ^
Outlet 2. -4AN M ^
-4AN F Hose -> -4AN F Hose | NOS-15240NOS | 26.69
-4AN M -> -4AN F 90' Fitting | NOS-17535NOS | 8.99
-4AN M -> 1/4" NPT Fitting | AER-FBM2002 | 2.95
Total: 66.07
- matt325is
heres a pic of diego's EGT source location from the factory cast manifolds.
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetod ... NDE%3D.jpgWhat clutch should i use now that im overpowering my stock clutch?
A: Very common in Sweden is to use the Sachs 'racing' pressure plate for 228 mm flywheels. It's called '618' due to the production number ending in those numbers. It can hold 500 Nm with the stock organic disc and 700+ Nm with a sintered 4-puck disc. Sintered pucks grab hard, so generally use as strong a pressure plate as you need to avoid straining the driveline.
- iXer
Ireland engeneering sell a 6-puck clutch-disc, sprung or unsprung for a very decent price. Check out there prices:
www.bmw2002.comYou may need to call to get a price for the sprung clutch disk because i dont think its listed on there site, but i had one for quite some time. I used an OEM pressure plate, and OEM lightened flywheel. I used it for a summer and the pressure plate let a spring go near the end of the season. That caused the clutch to glaze on a couple of disks. This is a great clutch for the money. Grabs very very hard. But, makes drivability difficult. The clutch is very much ON or OFF and is difficult to slip smoothly at a light. Mine chattered at idle and was unpredictible as to when it would activate. Nevertheless, it grabbed hard and never slipped. But - not a very good clutch for a daily. IMO.
http://www.bimmerjim.com/images/MyBMW/D ... in_006.jpg this is how the 6 puck looked right after removing it. notice the spring on the top of the OEM pressure plate sticking out.
Closeups:
http://www.bimmerjim.com/images/MyBMW/D ... in_021.jpghttp://www.bimmerjim.com/images/MyBMW/D ... in_009.jpgSo, i went to a centerforce dual friction. this clutch is much more expensive, but worth it IMO. this clutch behaves just like a stock clutch except it has a slightly heavier pedal but not nearly as heavy as the 6-puck (go figure). It grabs just as hard between shifts as the 6-puck and driveability is awesome. It made the car fun to drive on the street again.
http://www.bimmerjim.com/images/MyBMW/D ... in_040.jpghttp://www.bimmerjim.com/images/MyBMW/D ... in_028.jpg- Bimmerjim®
I run a spec stage 3 clutch and have honestly had nothing but good luck with it. It is not bad at all on the street and it hooks up like you wouldn't believe.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v521/ ... clutch.jpg- iflytii
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. Svo getur GSTuning einnig gert turbo ofan í E30 fyrir pening, eða aðra M20 vélar .
