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"Fear disturbs your concentration."

Og þar sem ég mun ekki vera með lækkunargorma í 533iA, þá eru venjulegu bara fínar ?

En ég er að fara skipta út allri fjöðrun í 535i t.d. og þá eru lækkunargormar í því, ætti ég þá að fá mér eccentric í hann ?

já


já

Does anyone know the story on the eccentric trailing arm bushings (p/n 33 32 9 058 824), vs using the regular ones (p/n 33 32 9 061 946) ? Seems like the eccentrics would only be used to fix an alignment problem. But what a pain to R&R the trailing arm and bushings just to make an adjustment? If this is the case, do they come with information on positioning the bushing to achieve a given change in spec?

you shouldn't need the eccentrics unless something is bent... if all other components are known to be good (subframe bushings, trailing arm links, rear differential mount). i would examine the trailing arms to see if there is any difference between the sides - which would indicate one or the other is bent... I set up a jig to measure the height off the bench that the outside flange became perpendicular - there was an inch difference between left and right arms which told me one of my trailing arms was bent. I replaced both, used stanard bushings and all is good. if you haven't lowered the car, alignment should come into spec with the standard round bushings. it is an iterative process with the trailing arm bushings because you need to get alignment readings and then make an "adjustment" with the eccentrics. I think there are marks on the bushings and I have seen tables showing where to position the bushing marks to achieve a desired adjustment. Fortunately I didn't need to go this route. Another option is the k-mac adjustable bushings or an adjustable subframe setup...

Slepptu þá eccentric, þó þetta sé til er ekkert must að kaupa þetta.
Eins og Jón Már nefndi framleiðir IE kit fyrir mjög lækkaða bíla, þá er bara sætið þar sem fóðringin fer í hækkuð.